
Laurie Colwyn writes in More Home Cooking, "There is something liberating about cooking in a rented house. Suddenly your daily props are gone, and you are in unfamiliar territory. Terrifying as this sometimes is, it is always good for you."
Last month we spent a week in the sweet spot of the Florida Keys, relatively underdeveloped Islamorada, in a gulf coast facing townhouse. I think for most people the joy of traveling includes a vacation from the kitchen, but I tend to get homesick for my own cooking. It's a sad bugabear I fear will only worsen as I get older so thank goodness for vacation rentals.
For me, the most terrifying aspect of cooking in a rented house is the array of cheap knives. I completely understand why a vacation house would not want to keep Wusthof on hand, but if this is what the rest of America is using to cut vegetables no wonder people have stopped cooking! Next time I have to remember to bring my own. (By the way, Ikea makes some very good and affordable knives.)
But the best part of cooking away from home is playing with another climate's food. I contacted Slow Food Glades to find out if there was a farmer's market on Monday when we would be on our way from Miami to the Keys, and sure enough, there's a tiny Monday market in Homstead. I bought mizuna, avocadoes, star fruit, spring onions, herbs, eggs, sour oranges, and even honey from Bee Heaven Farm.
Once in Islamorada we stopped at the Islamorada Fish Company (a restaurant with an adjascent fish store) where I found some local cobia and some dried Keys coconut. We coated the fillets with the coconut and grilled them and then made a reduction with juice from the sour oranges -- revealed to be the sour variety only after we had peeled one to eat on a kayaking trip. Not so tasty as a snack, but the reduction gave a bright, tangy contrast to the sweet, rich coconut grilled fish it. Best meal all week!
I didn't get much more ambitious than that. I made a huge batch of salsa and we spent the rest of the week mostly grazing on that with chips, hard-boiled eggs, and fruit. No regrets -- we loved it.

A guy at the Islamorada Trading Post told me the chocolate-covered frozen Key Lime pie on a stick would be "life changing." I think my life has remained as it ever was, but I will concede the pop is well worth the $4.50.

While in Miami I tracked down what is supposed to be one of the best Cubano sandwiches at Enriqueta's Sandwich Shop. Here we come face-to-face with one of the embarrassing conundrums of our modern American salad bowl of immigrant cuisine. Bogota Bistro here in Brooklyn makes a gentrified version with chopotle mayo, thick pickles, and roast pork, and melted swiss, among other things. It's glorious. The more authentic version is much humbler. Instead of roast pork there was what seemed like thinly-sliced fried pork butt ends (not as good as it sounds, either), but I could be wrong. The bread was lovely, but we were left wondering what the big deal was. Are we jerks? It was fun to eat these outdoors surrounded by the murals of nearby Wynwood Walls, though.
Oh Florida, I miss you today especially when it is dark and rainy here in New York! Just a few days ago I was paddling through a mangrove forest under warm azure sky. I still have some of that shredded coconut and I'm defrosting pork chops. I think I need to bring back a tiny bit of Florida for dinner tonight.
